There’s only one Michelin three-star restaurant in Copenhagen, and no, it’s not Noma, as famed as Rene Redzepi’s establishment is. That coveted status belongs to Geranium, and this is the first book dedicated to the restaurant.
Geranium is run by Rasmus Kofoed, now the sole chef, and Søren Ledet, who was originally co-chef but evolved into sommelier and manager. (Both are graduates of the Hotel d’Angleterre, the luxury hotel where Ronny Emborg had his Marchal restaurant before coming to Atera here in NYC.) The restaurant has built its reputation through a focus on local ingredients and inventive technique.
In this handsomely elegant book, Danish food journalist Christensen, working with photographer Bech-Poulsen, surveys the restaurant and its cuisine, presenting twenty of its most famous dishes. Some are remarkably simple, such as tomato water with ham fat and aromatic herbs. Others arrive at the table looking elegantly elemental but relying on precise technique, as does a dish of celeriac, scallop, and dried trout.